Taco Bell’s new savory Cheesy Chicken Crispanada arrived on chain menus Feb. 15, but this item belongs in the cravings value menu.

The Crispanada — the chain’s take on an empanada — boasted a delightful crunch in its fried dough shell, but its size and value left me wanting more.

Golden brown and inviting, its $3.49 price tag promised a handheld meal.

But the reality fell short. It fell even shorter once I realized the pastry was half hollow, missing much of the shredded chicken and melty three-cheese blend the advertisements promised.

The filling, what little I received, was savory and gooey — so gooey that a glob snuck out the side and plopped down on my jeans when I took a bite halfway through.

The cheese blend did not have any notable flavor beyond just mild cheese, which soaked the shredded chicken, obscuring its flavor, too. 

It was truly no different from any other cheesy Taco Bell item, if not more bland.

The pastry pouch’s texture felt like a beignet and had an audible crispy crunch. 

While a little greasy, it did not push soggy; its name is certainly accurate.

The cup of spicy ranch sauce complemented it well enough, but it just tasted like plain ranch to me.

Without the sauce, it would have been plainer than it already was, but the ranch did not dare to add any new flavor dimensions.

Essentially, all the sauce did was lubricate the pastry, adding a tolerable creaminess to the crispy shell.

I would have liked to see Taco Bell get bolder with the sauce here or at least offer more options with the item than just plain old spicy ranch. 

A sauce with a tomato base might have leveled up the Crispanada to my expectations, or maybe a green salsa like chimichurri would have added a smokiness to the flavor, instead of just piling more cream onto the mix.

While it’s a fun and intriguing addition to the Taco Bell menu, which can get tired for a frequenter like myself, it certainly didn’t offer anything revolutionary.

Once I was finished, I felt almost as empty as the Crispanada’s dough shell, wishing I had gotten literally anything else from the menu.

It delivered the comfort Taco Bell is known for, its classic cheesy blend of whatever-meat with a little bread, but it looked a lot more appetizing than it felt.

I can’t recommend the Crispanada in good conscience unless you’re specifically craving a tiny, crispy and cheesy snack.

But even so, Taco Bell’s recent additions to its cravings menu, like the $2.19 stacker or the $2.29 three-cheese chicken flatbread melt, might satisfy that craving while saving you a little cash.

The flatbread also has the iconic three-cheese blend and grilled chicken, though not shredded, and its bread packs a little crisp.

The stacker offers seasoned beef and nacho cheese sauce, though it might be too soggy for your liking if you’re really craving something crispy.

The Crispanada’s hype did not come close to my experience — but Conway offers three different Taco Bells, so maybe I just got unlucky at the one on Dave Ward.